John Kim 
You don’t need to go much farther than Nike to get a straightforward example of what the essence of evolution is. Year after year, the designers at the Swoosh label continue to bring forward some of the most advanced basketball footwear designs, and the moment its primary brand competitors even begin to catch on what’s unfolding before the eyes of the consumers, Nike disrupts us (pleasantly) with something completely next-level. In 2012, Nike Basketball introduced the Elite Collection of footwear; in a landscape already dominated by the Beaverton brand, the debut of Elite sent the message that only from within could a better basketball sneaker be produced. With that said, the 2014 Elite Collection is a no-holds-barred design and innovation smorgasbord that will allow LeBron James, Kevin Durant, and Kobe Bryant to live out their sneaker fantasies. To put it briefly – LeBron, KD, and Kobe asked for it and Nike delivered, and in two days we’ll get to experience the fun for ourselves.
On Wednesday, we sat down with Nike Basketball Product Director Charles Williams – a Nike Inc. veteran of nearly two decades – to talk about the “Elite 3.0” Series and why it’s the best Elite Series of basketball footwear that the ambitious brand has ever put out. We also addressed a number of key topics, such as LeBron’s ability to wear the Elite 11, the surprising release schedule of the Kobe 9 Elite, the potential of new Elite models and signatures for the future, and much more. In addition to the info, you’ll get a first-hand look at some production samples and materials that you won’t see anywhere else except here. Without further ado, click below to read up on our discussion with the folks at Nike Basketball and mark your calendars for April 12th, May 9th, and June 6th as the “Team”, “Hero”, and “Gold” Collection will be up for grabs at select Nike Basketball retailers.
Many thanks to Charles Williams and Nike for giving us the opportunity to explore the Nike Elite Collection.
Above: The Nike Basketball Elite “Gold Collection”
Sneaker News: Charles, start us off with a quick summary of the 2014 Elite Series.
Charles Williams: Sure thing. The premise of the third Generation of the Elite was that we could make our athletes that much better with respect to the footwear during the Playoffs. What we did for the first two years was take a bit of a blanketed approach; we looked for innovations that could give LeBron, KD, and Kobe a competitive advantage across the board. A lot of what we were doing was centered around external booties, carbon fiber, kevlar, things of that nature. What we found was that these three guys needed different things. They were approaching the game with a unique angle, so we wanted to hone in on their different needs, and that is what “Elite 3.0” is all about.
We look at the NBA Season as two different seasons – you have the 82-game “marathon” and the 28-game “sprint”. After talking to those guys, we’ve come to realize that it’s less about a “sprint” and more about a “war”. The games were that much more intense, the challenge was harder, and being the best of the best, the competition comes to them a little different.
For LeBron, we have here a couple of iterations of the project itself. What we did was very similar to what we did with other LeBron projects – we circled around the notion of protection, containment, and responsiveness. One thing we added to really bolster the LeBron 11 Elite was the notion of being articulated, making sure that the shoe was pliable and had a level of natural motion to it, and for
LeBron, we think about how at any point, he can impose as much power as anyone in the NBA, and in many ways, as much speed. So what we wanted to do is make the shoe as strong as possible without adding a bunch of weight.
SN: Could you elaborate on what was added to the LeBron 11?
CW: What we did was add this TPU wing. In previous iterations of the LeBron Elite, we used Carbon Fiber. We found that the way we were not able to use it in the way we needed to – the carbon fiber started to crack in some places and overall, it did not fit out intentions. So not only did we want one of the strongest materials in the world, we wanted something purposeful. We went with the TPU because it gave us this stability and flexibility. For example, the TPU shank on the mid foot is much harder than what is used on the quarter and on the heel. We fine-tuned the material to ensure that LeBron stays on the footbed considering the amount of torque his body creates.
SN: The LeBron 11 was introduced as the LeBron signature with the lowest cut. With the Elite going even lower than that, is Nike converging onto a low-cut signature shoe for the future?
CW: It’s all about having this “hybrid” experience from a performance perspective. That means giving LeBron the free range of motion you’d experience in a Low with the proprioception and confidence of a Mid that he’s used to wearing. So he’s getting the best of both worlds, and that’s the beauty about working with a guy like LeBron because we get the insight and feedback that helps us make a better shoe.
Above: The Nike LeBron 11 Elite “Gold”
Above: An earlier sample of the “Hero” edition
SN: It’s no mystery that LeBron had issues with the 11 shoe. Was there any extra revisionary period, an extended wear-test, or any level of “going back to the drawing board” with the Elite?
CW: For us, the big thing was making sure that we get the fit right. For these types of projects, we use different processes. So if you look at the LeBron 11 versus the LeBron 10, the 11 is a double-lasted shoe. Think about a midsole being external versus the midsole being inside of a shoe. We had to make sure that there was enough volume in the shoe and that it fit like a glove. The best part about this is that we had that insight (regarding the difficult fit) early on, so when we got to the Elite, we were in a much better position and if you’ve noticed, LeBron’s worn the Elite a number of times thus far.
SN: Looking at construction of the LeBron 11 Elite, with the internal midsole and the Posite cage – this shoe is a lot like the LeBron 4.
CW: That’s a great point in a historical context because the LeBron 4 was the most protective LeBron shoe to date, and that was a shoe that we always looked at as the “holy grail” in regards to protection. But one thing that LeBron, Nike, and the consumer disliked about the LeBron 4 was that it was really heavy. So with the 11 and the Elite, there was this idea of going back to Posite for that boost in protection, but we did it with Hyperposite. As you can see, Hyperposite allows for natural flex, while traditional Posite, like the one used in the LeBron 4, was in the shape of a bucket and being
light wasn’t one of its strong points. So not only are we stripping down materials we deem unnecessary, we’re reworking material innovations to better suit the athletes.
SN: The most resounding notion of Elite is that while the shoe is essentially stripped of extra weight, the shoe looks far more substantial than the base model.
CW: That speaks to the idea of using the Hyperposite on the upper, but replacing key areas with the TPU inlay is one way we really bolstered the shoe and made it perform even better. We add strength while removing things is not needed. Nike as a whole has a goal of not adding unnecessary $%&#.
SN: Speaking of not needed: Ankle straps as a whole seem to be amiss from Nike Basketball.
CW: Overall one of the big things we try to do is find a way to take that concept and root it in modernity. One thing that you won’t find in Nike Basketball is the ankle strap. We (Nike Basketball) and our athletes don’t think they work. Think of it like a seatbelt in that when you wear it, you just feel that much safer. That’s pretty much what an ankle strap is – it’ll make you feel safer, but it doesn’t really do anything opposed to a midfoot strap, which actually locks you down. So to your point, opposed to an ankle strap or even a mid foot strap, we went back to that mid-foot harness; it’s so much closer to the foot and gives you that one-to-one fit and feel.
Above: A production sample showcasing the points of flexion on the Hyperposite upper
Above: Nike KD 6 Elite “Gold”
SN: Looking at the KD 6 Elite – while the silhouette is the same as the KD 6, it’s almost a brand new shoe.
CW: With KD, his breakout shoe for us is the KD 4. Then when the beginning stages of the KD 5 came around, KD really started talking about Max Air. It came in the KD 5 and KD 6, and as his shoes evolved, he really started to understand the process of footwear design as well as what his needs on-court were. In the end, he wanted more Air! He would ask “what’s the maximum amount of cushioning I can get?” and we automatically went right to the full-length Zoom bag. The KD 6 has the forefoot encapsulated Zoom with Max Air on the heel, so the full-length Zoom is the best of both worlds.
SN: You see the full-length cushioning, the foam-based layer and the mesh upper, the Flywire – where’s the line between this being a basketball shoe and a running shoe?
CW: In terms of the upper, one of the things we had to do is not only remove the unnecessary, but to employ the idea of give some, take some. So with the larger Air bag now in play, we didn’t want the shoe to become too heavy or cumbersome. Within the upper, we wanted to go with something stripped down and to go back to the original story –
SN: The high-end watches and the Precision Timing?
CW: Exactly. When we had these meetings with KD, he would show up in casual clothing – some shorts or sweats, running shoes, what have you, but he’d always show up in with these great watches. During one of the meetings, Leo Chang (Nike Basketball Design Director) asked KD to see one of his watches and he started to notice that these watches have a level on honesty in that from the front and through
the back, you can see all the working parts straight through – the precision and the working of that. That’s the inspiration for the Elite; we thought to ourselves, “how could we open it up and show the consumer the inner workings of the shoe?”. From there, you begin to see the relationship between the mesh, the Flywire, the foam, and how all of those come together to form this ultimate package.
SN: It’s impressive to see what was originally a visual concept evolve into a physical concept.
CW: Yeah. If you look at the tongue logo on the KD 6, it was kind of a hint toward the Elite, which is essentially what Elite is – creating shoes in the best and most provocative way of showing the consumer what was really going on inside.
SN: One of the more understated features of the KD 6 Elite are the two grooves near the forefoot of the midsole.
CW: With the KD 6 having forefoot Zoom and Max Air on the heel, the shoe flexed more organically. With the full-length Zoom bag, you lose a little bit of that flexibility, so one of the big things with the 6 Elite was not only adding those grooves, but outsole is much different. There are a lot more flex grooves, which helps the Zoom bag flex naturally and in the right places and as much as KD needs it to. If you look at the LeBron 10, the bag sits higher, but with KD, he wants maximum cushioning while being low to the ground. So although he plays the Small Forward position, he views himself as the point guard, so we had to remove a lot of the foam on top of the bag – typically there is a lot of foam between the bag and the foot. With the Elite, he’s as close to the bag as possible.
Above: A spread of the KD 6 Elite components and samples
Above: The Nike Basketball Elite “Gold Collection”
SN: The colorways of the 2014 Elite Series have been unveiled, and the recent Gold collection is an obvious continuation of the original “Gold” that started in 2012 and was carried over last year. What’s the significance behind this added Mango color-blocking to the Collection?
CW: The Mango was added to be provocative. In the first year, you had the serious black with the trophy gold, and that served as an inspiration for all three guys who were trying to win a Title. Then the following year in 2013, we continued the palette while making some minor changes. But with the 2014 Collection, we wanted to take that notion of trophy gold and give it some energy.
SN: What are some of the more less obvious points of “weight reduction” on the shoes?
CW: One thing that many haven’t honed in on is that the Elite Series isn’t lighter. The KD 6 Elite and LeBron 11 Elite are actually slightly
heavier than their base models. The idea of lightweight is relative to the player. We want to make sure “lightweight” is the right weight. Lightweight is inherent, and it should be inherent in everything that we do. To your point, the earlier goal of Elite was to make the shoes discernibly lighter. For this iteration of Elite, we want to make the shoes discernibly better. More protective, more cushioning, more pliability, or whatever specific ask was from the athlete, and at the same time, not gain too much weight.
SN: That’s essentially how Elite is defined – lighter can be part of the definition, but as a whole, “Elite” just means “better”.
CW: The best of the best for the best, at the appropriate times.
Above: Charles Williams, Nike Basketball Product Director
Above: Nike Kobe 9 Elite “Gold”
SN: Obviously Kobe won’t be participating in the Playoffs this year. Will we see other players represent the shoe? We’ve seen PJ Tucker on the Suns bring out some interesting PEs.
CW: You know what, PJ Tucker’s been getting a lot of juice! I wouldn’t say it’s official on my end, and my team and I haven’t created anything for him specifically. Some of these I found by reading your site! But he’s in the know. He has some interesting things as of late. The cool thing about this is that we can’t predict where these guys are going to be at this point in time of the season. What we do know is that these guys represent the best players in the world. All we know is that we’re making these shoes for the best players in the world.
The beauty is that each of these guys, Kobe, KD, and LeBron, all approach the game differently. Kobe approaches the game with a speed perspective, with a pliable, minimalist perspective. KD is more dynamic so he has this hybrid piece in that he wants it Low and he
wants it Light, but he wants the big Max Air in it as well. LeBron plays from a Power perspective. That’s what we’re trying to convey with Elite – that each of these products have a reason for being.
SN: Kobe specifically has played a pretty big role in dictating not only his own signature line, but basketball footwear design in the 21st Century.
CW: The whole concept of bringing Flyknit to Basketball was not something that was planned early on in the stages of Flyknit. But when Kobe starting talking about things he wanted to bring to life on the Masterpiece, he had notions of a “second skin” that moved with his body, something that feel as if it was a part of him. And looking at what we had in our arsenal, Flyknit was it. Then there was the challenge of making it applicable to basketball. Flyknit is this seamless upper that you can build in support and structure in the overall process, which is what makes it such a dope concept.
Above: Samples of Flyknit uppers for the Kobe 9 Elite
Above: Various samples and components of the Elite Collection
SN: We’re trained to think that the Elite model follows the base model, but with the Kobe 9, its an entire different schedule. We saw the High Elite first, then the EM, then the Elite Low. Any reason behind this unexpected mix?
CW: It was planned based on Kobe having us embark on one of the biggest projects in Basketball history. He wanted it to be the Masterpiece, and he wanted it to be the culmination of everything we’ve done so far and for it to be the best. He looked at it and said “you know what, this is Elite” and he wanted it to come out first. You’re right in the the Elite typically comes to market during Playoffs time and we held it off as much as we could, but we at Nike and Kobe wanted people to think “Elite” when they first saw the shoe.
SN: The shoes aren’t here, but we can’t ignore it since it is an Elite shoe – the Kobe 9 Elite Low. Some people who were really looking forward to the Kobe 9 Elite, wanted it to be a Low.
CW: For us, we hope to continue to be unexpected. We don’t want people to think we’re going to rest on our laurels. Kobe was the one who started the low-top modern revolution. This wasn’t a gimmick or ploy to go in another direction – it was Kobe who said he wanted a High. He also said, “at some point, i’m going to need a low”, so the whole process was entirely organic and those who swear by low-tops will see the shoe come to life.
Above: A look at two outsoles of the LeBron 11 Elite
Above: A “color test” sample of the KD 6 Elite
SN: Continuing off the thought of the Kobe 9 Elite releasing first, how early on is Elite in the works, since the planning aspect of Elite is likely much more refined now that you guys are three years in?
CW: In many ways, the Elite is started when we’re starting the signature shoe. It’s about getting to the point of being comfortable with the direction of the signature shoe, and throughout those processes, we start working with the athletes to figure out what we can make even better. The Elite strategy starts a few seasons after these guys first bring the in-season signature shoes to light. So during then, we ask them what they’d like more. KD wanted more cushioning. LeBron loves the weight of the shoe, but he wanted more protection when he was cutting. It’s those things that are the learning experiences and we start the Elite concept simultaneously.
SN: So what makes one aspect Elite and not Elite? If Nike wanted to, it could make the Elite the in-season base signature shoe and call it a day.
CW: The special thing with Elite is that it gives an opportunity to go all-out so to speak. A full-length bag is something KD’s been waiting for a couple years now, so Elite allows him to sort of live out his sneaker “dream” if you will. It’s like “whatever you want, we’ll give it to you”. From a designer standpoint, they’d love to get all of those attributes into the shoe, but there are constraints such as pricing and things of that nature. So when we get to Elite, its no-holds-barred and we can strip away any of the negotiations and such that we have to have within (laughs) and do whatever we want to do in concert with what the athlete wants. It’s a three month period where we all can go bananas!
Above: Foam layers on the KD 6 Elite
Above: A sample of the KD 6 Elite showcasing the various components of the upper
SN: With such a high-tech shoe like the Elite, how much more intense is the wear-test process?
CW: The process with all of these guys is simply at the highest level. We have to make sure that our products live up to our reputation. We start wear-testing early on; we have a Division-1 college testing piece, international testing program, and the ultimate test is the athlete themselves. We make sure we get the shoes to those guys in a timely manner and figure out what works, and what doesn’t. At the same time, we want to make sure we beat the %$^& out of these things because at some point, if something isn’t as strong or isn’t what it needs to be, we can go back and fix it before it goes into production.
SN: Would Nike consider ushering in a new model to Elite, or maybe bring the Hyperdunk back?
CW: Right now its very specific to the signature guys. Obviously we did Hyperdunk the first year, but we feel the consumer understands
our signature strategy more so than our democratic shoe in the Hyperdunk. I mean, I would never say never, but as we start to evolve Elite – that’s pretty much my job is, to see what we’re looking like in 3-5 years and in 2020 – I wouldn’t rule out bringing in a new model, but Kobe, KD, and LeBron have a lot of Playoff experience as well as Finals experience, so it allows them to give us insight in terms of what happens in each Playoff round. We feel they are the sharp point since they do have the most experience.
SN: KD and LeBron have extremely high MVP and Finals potential. Should we expect special editions for those when any of those big accolades are awarded to them?
CW: (Laughs) You’ve been around long enough to know that we’ve got some stuff in the works.
Above: A colorful shell upper for the KD 6 Elite. Potential MVP/Finals Colorway?
